Human League

Time is up in Nepal and despite feeling pretty ill decide to risk it and get the overnight bus back to the Indian border. Stumach holds up well but feel weak as a kitten and semi delirious; which is my usual bus state; as we head back to the border. Things are delayed though as reports of ambushes by the "Terrai League"; splinter group of the more militant, "Human Terrai League" in the forests ahead reach the driver. Repeat loud playing of "I,m only human " seemed to keep the protesters at bay; this; as well as the being escorted in convoy by hundreds of heavily armed troops in military vehicles.
Midday Friday I am back in India and decide a day in bed should clear the delirium.

Rushdie Outraged

One of the best bits things about Pokhara has to be my initially surly looking French friend turned Corsican genius- Tangy. Spent a few afternoons at his Commencal ( French M.T.B manufacturer) sponsored bike hut. Had a handful of rides around Pokhara; some cracking trails and non of the traffic hopping that mars reaching the trails in Katmandu. Tangy is well on his way to having some of the best M.T.B er,s in Asia as he runs a school for kids from 7 up who seem more than happy on both wheels, back wheels or sometimes hopping around on front wheels pulling stunts on the street. Amazing stuff.
Nightimes in Pokhara are the biggest problem with a myriad of near empty bars and restaurants churning out the same stuff. Managed a few ales here and there but my big night out watching the football in the decent company of a student of Shakespeare was destroyed by an outrageous attack on my favourite (and only read author) Salman Rushdie with the preposterous expostulation that Rushdie had robbed all his ideas of Gunther Grass. Can anyone help me on this one ???

Births, hailstones and mad cows.

All things pretty tame in Pokhara. Beautiful setting alongside a lake with cracking views of the Annapurna range of mountains take a day to settle in and embark upon my first ride out.

Head up to Sagarkot for a short blap out about 800 metre height gain on tarmac road to a small settlement perched high above the lake. Follow past village for a few Km to sight a track to descend back to lake to discover a heavily pregnant Nepali lady lied flat out on the side of the track shaded by an umbrella held by another women. The umbrella lady called out for me to get a taxi so I bombed back down the track to the village to try to avail one. Village shopkeeper said he would phone for taxi but seemed unwilling to ring for one unless I would promise to pay the fare which obviously I had to accept. Wait around for about 30 minutes in gathering clouds waiting for the taxi before news comes in the form of a motorbike rider that the lady has given birth on the side of the track. Unsure if the taxi is still required I sprint back up the 2 k climb to find the lady wandering back up the hill clutching the child with the umbrella women and a man for company. The man; on sighting me called out "Sorry Taxi cancel" as if he had decided to stay in the pub for an extra pint. Returned back down to the village, paid the bemused Taxi driver his fare before heading down the closest trail I could find that would lead be out of the gathering strom.
Hail stones the size of Yaks bolloxs ping of my widened eyeballs as I descend a super tricky trail full of greasy steps and rocks back down to the lake. Lightening and thunder ensue which cause havoc amongst the local buffalo and cow population causing a charge with one particular cow eying me up as the cause of the noise and deciding to trample me to death. Abandon bike mid trail and cower trembling behind a giant tree whilst the cow repeatedly rushes at the tree with its horns down, stamping and mooing in a terrifying manner. Thankfully rescued by a shepherd who shoos the beast away.

The Controversy Continues to Mar Mountain Bike Meet

For those following the appalling scenes at the previously mentioned Indian mountain bike National Championships this response has been posted up.

Dear

The story was biased, there were many irregularities and misconduct during the championships. Mr Dhaliwal was not present at that moment when the incident took place. Mr. Grewal openly indulged in unfair practices and manipulating the timings. Lately even the chief referee also left the championship midway due to grewal interference. The MTB circuit is not according to UCI rules and have 80% mottled road and there was no traffic control either. Till date the boys trained in Chandigarh whether taking part from other states are winning the MTB events. How Chandigarh manager can help his riders if they are taking part from Chandigarh.if Grewal is fair enough, why there is lot protests in all the recently held National Championships.

Escape From Khatmandu

Picked up the Indian visa and head Kathmandu's favourite watering hole Tom and Jerry's to make plans for my escape . Miserable fare and appear to be short of company. Polish off my third pint and decide to leave until company arrives in the shortest of forms with a Manchester based Nepali gay dwarf who works at Next and professes to be a big hit with the ladies; buys me a pint before a brief chit chat about Manchester before scuttling off into the night.

Tuborg and Orangeboom

Day four now in Nepal. Headed straight to Khatmandu from the Indian border a promised 12 hour bus ride took 19 in a bus full of violently unpredictable reclining seats which reclined or folded at random like human mouse traps crushing the arms, legs and heads of the uncomplaining pasengers who seemed quite used to it.
Khatmandu- Hole up in Khatmandu's Thamel area super touristy and unrecognisable from previous visits. My legendary sense of direction which serves me so well in India appears to have failed to penetrate the Katmnadu valley and spend the next four days wandering around the maze of streets in a state of confusement.
Regain my bearings in the evening time on a diet of Momos and slurping Nepal's favourite beers those long since forgotten master brewers Tuborg and Orangeboom which can be bought in any shop including the barbers. In other ways they are way ahead of the times here and spend a pleasant Nepali New Year celebration in French, Australian, Canadian and Israeli company bringing in the Nepali year of 2064!
Mountain biking in Khatmandu seems quite advanced as well relative to India with a few shops renting out decent imported bikes, there are M.T.B maps, a competition on the 29th April; which I will skip as its 100 US$; and a few foreigners winding their way through the streets on impressive looking bikes. Join up with two French lads one a M.T.B guide from Pokhara( 300k away) and another a French teacher. Have a few rides out with them, some superb and very technical trails in the hills surrounding Khatmandu and the lads prove to be fitter, faster and Frencher than me in that initially surly way they have.

Murk in Mirik

Recovery day in Darjeeling before bus to Mirik which promises some superb mountain biking with loads of trails pouring down the hillside to the plains of Bengal 2000 metres below. No visibility at all for two days makes Mirik a miserable murky place and impossible for trail finding so console myself with a 10k run around the lake and a 10k road climb.
Decide to abandon on the third day and head to Nepal early to pick up a new Indian Visa and have a look at the mountan biking there with the hope that the weather will clear when I return.