Ludicrous Scenes

Khatmandu. At last I have managed to secure another Indian visa, which is in itself an event. The Indian embassy staff have a reputation for surliness but given the ludicrous scenes that play out inside and outside the embassy gates it is quite understandable. The closest way to describe it would be like lining up outside Headingley for a Saturday test match complete with innumerable exhibitionists in fancy dress but with everyone taking it seriously. This week featured a red Indian, a man in a mask, people dressed as Hari Krishna’s; probably Hari Krishna’s; men and women topped in ludicrous hats and innumerable professional traveler types strutting round like peacocks in their multi coloured garb. Cricket balls are replaced with juggling balls and cans of ale for bongs and spliffs; (probably both at Headingley]; half an hour of this could be entertaining but there is a limit to the number of times you can be struck by an errant juggling ball before being seized by the urge to kick it onto the nearest roof.

Elections are coming to soon to Nepal which is marked by the previously insurgent Maoists joining the political mainstream and participating in the elections, despite having innumerable weapons and armed cadres they have proclaimed their commitment to democracy and vowed to honour the result whatever the outcome. However all groups are viewing the elections and build up as a means to securing their own objectives and myriad different groups have appeared all equally militant, ready to strike, block roads or march on political opponents with sticks and beat a few people to death.

I have now left Nepal and returned to Darjeeling just before the elections start. With the only way out by air or along the vulnerable, frequently blocked Terrai road that runs along the border with India. (Our bus was stopped by three hours until a police escort arrived to prevent us from coming under attack). I am happy to be back in India and ready to get back on the bike tomorrow and head back to the Singalila ridge under the shadow of the worlds third highest mountain Kanchenjunga. Yaks freezing temperatures and a two day climb to start thing off are all promised.