We have all been looking at the skies these last few days here in Kerala stars, eclipses, Magarajoti’s the lot.
The highlight of the Sabrimalla pilgrim season here in Kerala; which has seen an estimated 50 million pilgrims (with perhaps 48 million of those pausing for a urine pass against the walls of the once pristine, once busy and unfortunately positioned restaurant of Avenue Relish in Kuttikanam) make the trek through forest paths to the remote temple complex; is the Magarajoti. The big light. The bare footed, black clad pilgrims undergo a series of penances for 40 days, full vegetarian diet, no shaving, pure thoughts, and no sex with the missus before entering the temple complex for a darshan or viewing of the Lord Ayappa. Many walk from their homes in the neighbouring states of Tamil Nadu or Andhra Pradesh carrying a coconut wrapped up in a sheet as an offering. 100’s of miles on baking roads the pilgrims trudge, camping and eating by the roadside as they go. Others, perhaps less devote, travel by bus or jeeps adorned with flowers and idols, trekking the last section of the path where they queue for 12 hours or more. As the pilgrim season nears an end Lord Ayappa appears in light form from deep in the forests near Sabrimalla. We joined thousands of others on the hill top of Perunthumpara with tens of thousands camped out on other hillocks to witness the scene. Pilgrims banged drums and chanted as sunset approached, free tea was distributed (unknown to me or I would have pints of the stuff), the first star of the night became visible, excitement followed a second star was pointed out by thousands of outstretched hands. Atmosphere reached fever pitch and then the lights became visible just below the horizon Ayappa’s name echoing into the cool night air sung by a thousand voices.
The next day we were back on the bikes and back at Eagle Rock, Perunthumpara. Para meaning rock with Perunthum meaning eagle. This time we looked to the skies through sunglasses, squinting, flashing a furtive glance at the sun, risking blindness and disappointment for a view of the eclipse. The skies darkened, crowds gathered and ice cream vans followed provided the solution to a safe sighting of the eclipse. The roofs of the ice-cream vans were quick plastic with the view of the still burning but mooned over sun clearly visible. Mr. John’s Ice Cream van was popular but others preferred to view the eclipse through the prism of a red tinged Skiys Ice cream van roof, a few more intrepid types headed over to Lazis cones and ices to view the eclipse in green. All are now blind. Errm hopefully not
