The Hooded Claw

I have just returned from another weeks high altitude trail research and have had my post trip feast spoilt by the merciless monkeys who have taken advantage of a momentary security lapse. The evil “bandas” have munched through my mango, papaya and pomegranate supplies and strewn the plastic bag and inedible bits all over the balcony. Fuming.
Decided to do the last trail research all on foot; which was probably wise; as it took me over 4200 meters altitude on snow bound trails to the mysterious frozen lake of Roop Kund. The shallow ‘Tal’ (lake) is famed for the visible skeletal remains that it contains a result of a doomed pilgrimage over 800 years ago. Unfortunately snow and ice stopped us from reaching the lake, which would have required ice axes, crampons and considerably better trekking gear than my shorts and fell running shoes. Nights were interesting with the only accommodation available in teashops sprawled out on a wooden bench, which served as the counter during the day, wrapped up in blankets. The real bed was shared by the two shop owners who braved the freezing temperatures sharing one blanket sleeping head to toe Laurel and Hardy style with constant arguments over who had most of the blanket.
All the mountainous areas are in a feverish state at present as a gold rush of sorts is in progress coming in the form of a fungus called “Larawa”. Porters, trekking guides and daily laborers have made their way to near 4000 meters altitude in search of their fortune.
It appears birds drop the fungal spores out the sky and if they land right they grow underneath the surface as caterpillar sized black and yellow growths with the top barely visible above the surface as a matchstick sized white stalk. It is these white stalks that the pickers are looking for usually sprawled out on the grass as if sleeping on their stomachs.
The “Larawa” is big money with a kilogram worth 5 lakh rupees which is about £6000, with an individual piece bringing in between 70 and 250 rupees, which is more than a days, wage for most. A picker can expect to collect around 250 a week, which is a massive sum in India. The demand for the “Larawa” is driven by the Chinese, who use it as a boost for sexual power. (The author in a trial ate 3 kilograms of the stuff and is at present still unable to pull his shorts off (and get rid of the host of debt collecting mountain men camped outside the door) NONSENSE)
Fortunes are made at a cost however, temperatures are freezing, rain and snow are common with the pickers usually dressed only woolens and hole ridden leather shoes with makeshift camps of bamboo and plastic sheeting the only protection from the elements. Accidents are common with deaths not unheard of as pickers venture to more remote spots in search of the fungus only to find themselves caught in the snow or lost in the thick mist. With the season lasting only two months these are risks that for many that are worth taking.
Almost forgot. I met a reincarnation of the Hooded Claw (without claw). Genius of a man dressed only in black robes and a black turban which times he dropped down for effect to make his hood and cover a massive scar that ran down his forehead into his left eyebrow giving him a distinctly sinister look. Couldn’t believe it when he approached me introducing himself as Mark from Cambridge with a flourish of his robes. Claims to have been in India for the past 11 years, which is possibly true. I reckon he could have been an actor at some stage and got lost in one of his roles.
Back out in the mountains again tomorrow in an effort to link up all the trails that I have found another week on the bike should be enough then get ready to go back home for the summer for pies, pasties, ale and cheese.