Friday, May 25, 2007

"Black Hearted Bongols"

Arrive in the gritty town of Kurseong without the sunshine that give it an allure yesterday it takes a while to orientate. Tea estates flank the outskirts of the town and an afternoons stroll reveals loads of singletrack for further exploration. Retire happily to bar which has the appearance of a 1970's front room complete with sofa,s and a T.V with two fluffy dogs perched on top of it. Ask for cold beer and served a warm beer with a bowl of ice separate try a few chunks and get a cold beer and a stomach tied in knots later that night.
Run about on the trails the following day and bump into ex military intelligence officer seems full of life for a man in his 80's and reckons that it is due to him being a hill area man but "those fat men from the plains they can not do anything." Feelings appear to run high here about the plains/hills divide. This divide I will attempt to explain in brief.
The people in Darjeeling and the mountain areas around it are predominantly ethnic Nepali and while being technically speaking Indian; living in the state of West Bengal; class themselves as Nepali. On the plains below, if locals are to be believed, lie "black hearted man" who will double cross and cheat you without mercy, a population of fat evil man who refuse to relinquish control over the Gorkha (Nepali) people and give them a degree of autonomy and there own state of Gorhkaland. In the 80's and 90's heavy clashes between the the Gorkha separatists and the West Bengal police took place which are well described in Anita Desai's Booker prize winning book "The Inheritance of Loss".
Obviously most of the tourists making their way up to Darjeeling and surrounds are Bengali and Bihari but predominantly from Calcutta and, agreed, they are all fat but these are the wealthy types and and a very poor representation of the plains people who are mostly thin and black hearted. Not true and unfair.


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