All normal trains were booked when I made my travel arrangements so I am excited about the prospect of travelling on my first ever Summer Special, extra trains put on to clear the summer holiday maker rush.
No visible signs of the train arriving on time so chat-chat with the locals about expected delays, here it is discovered that the S.S tag also stands for super slow as the trains have no real schedule at all and only use the tracks when the "real trains" have flown past. Arrive in Delhi 33 hours later for what should have been a 22 hour trip. At least I had an A.C carriage; as the temps were in the 40C; and a reasonable bunch of fellow travellers to pass the time with.
Head out for ales and re-meet the Estonian cycling 6 who are just about ready to launch off on the next leg of their trip which takes them through Kashmir into Pakistan and then on to Afghanistan should be good.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Panthers
Last few days in the Darjeeling hills prove fruitful and manage to unearth enough tracks and paths me thinks to put together a fantastic tour in November time.
Spent yesterday running and walking the 45 km to Kurseong from Darjeeling on a jeep track that follows the old British Military road, excellent stuff with the first 10 k through the thick forests of a National Park. Few signs up saying do not disturb the animals but sadly no signs requesting that the animals don't disturb the humans. Come under attack twice by unidentified animals crashing and hissing in the trees but not brave enough to confront me directly, throw in a bit of sprint training here and there to show the animals what they are up against and it appeared that the suspected panthers/ black bears/ domesticated dogs didn't fancy their chances which is lucky because I was half dead and had to walk the last 30 k of the day.
Return to Darjeeling to discover that the disc has not arrived but its all to late now and I am on the train back to Delhi ready for the last bit of what was to be mountain biking in the mountainous North West Indian state of Himachel Pradesh.
Spent yesterday running and walking the 45 km to Kurseong from Darjeeling on a jeep track that follows the old British Military road, excellent stuff with the first 10 k through the thick forests of a National Park. Few signs up saying do not disturb the animals but sadly no signs requesting that the animals don't disturb the humans. Come under attack twice by unidentified animals crashing and hissing in the trees but not brave enough to confront me directly, throw in a bit of sprint training here and there to show the animals what they are up against and it appeared that the suspected panthers/ black bears/ domesticated dogs didn't fancy their chances which is lucky because I was half dead and had to walk the last 30 k of the day.
Return to Darjeeling to discover that the disc has not arrived but its all to late now and I am on the train back to Delhi ready for the last bit of what was to be mountain biking in the mountainous North West Indian state of Himachel Pradesh.
Friday, May 25, 2007
"Black Hearted Bongols"
Arrive in the gritty town of Kurseong without the sunshine that give it an allure yesterday it takes a while to orientate. Tea estates flank the outskirts of the town and an afternoons stroll reveals loads of singletrack for further exploration. Retire happily to bar which has the appearance of a 1970's front room complete with sofa,s and a T.V with two fluffy dogs perched on top of it. Ask for cold beer and served a warm beer with a bowl of ice separate try a few chunks and get a cold beer and a stomach tied in knots later that night.
Run about on the trails the following day and bump into ex military intelligence officer seems full of life for a man in his 80's and reckons that it is due to him being a hill area man but "those fat men from the plains they can not do anything." Feelings appear to run high here about the plains/hills divide. This divide I will attempt to explain in brief.
The people in Darjeeling and the mountain areas around it are predominantly ethnic Nepali and while being technically speaking Indian; living in the state of West Bengal; class themselves as Nepali. On the plains below, if locals are to be believed, lie "black hearted man" who will double cross and cheat you without mercy, a population of fat evil man who refuse to relinquish control over the Gorkha (Nepali) people and give them a degree of autonomy and there own state of Gorhkaland. In the 80's and 90's heavy clashes between the the Gorkha separatists and the West Bengal police took place which are well described in Anita Desai's Booker prize winning book "The Inheritance of Loss".
Obviously most of the tourists making their way up to Darjeeling and surrounds are Bengali and Bihari but predominantly from Calcutta and, agreed, they are all fat but these are the wealthy types and and a very poor representation of the plains people who are mostly thin and black hearted. Not true and unfair.
Run about on the trails the following day and bump into ex military intelligence officer seems full of life for a man in his 80's and reckons that it is due to him being a hill area man but "those fat men from the plains they can not do anything." Feelings appear to run high here about the plains/hills divide. This divide I will attempt to explain in brief.
The people in Darjeeling and the mountain areas around it are predominantly ethnic Nepali and while being technically speaking Indian; living in the state of West Bengal; class themselves as Nepali. On the plains below, if locals are to be believed, lie "black hearted man" who will double cross and cheat you without mercy, a population of fat evil man who refuse to relinquish control over the Gorkha (Nepali) people and give them a degree of autonomy and there own state of Gorhkaland. In the 80's and 90's heavy clashes between the the Gorkha separatists and the West Bengal police took place which are well described in Anita Desai's Booker prize winning book "The Inheritance of Loss".
Obviously most of the tourists making their way up to Darjeeling and surrounds are Bengali and Bihari but predominantly from Calcutta and, agreed, they are all fat but these are the wealthy types and and a very poor representation of the plains people who are mostly thin and black hearted. Not true and unfair.
Monday, May 21, 2007
Mirik Revisited
Mirik; the weather has cleared so make instant use of the fine spell and head high to the Buddhist monastery for a vantage point. Looks like plenty of scope with tea gardens everywhere so polish up me running shoes and ready myself for a big day tomorrow of run trekking. Morning still clear so hoick up the main road to the highest point about 8 km to see if there are any paths down. Friendly bunch around here and take breaks twice during the day in peoples houses for free tea, biscuits and route advice. Meet one lively character in one of the houses who appears to have a speech impediment and a large hole in his chin. On his departure the house owner informs me that he was a high ranking police officer in Calcutta but had a big problem with the drink, such a problem that in an armed chase with local "goons" the drunk copper shot himself in the chin by mistake with the bullet departing through his nose.
Find more trails down to the river which again become unrideable but at least got a good view of the terrain to launch myself for two more days of route finding which at last finds a decent days riding on the soon to be famous Sukhia-Pokriabong-Rangbang river-Mirik route . Thrilled with the days work. Walking back on the stiff climb back up to Mirik the clouds lift to give me a view of another town and ridge about 40 .m away with a forested top and myriad tea estates, looks like the perfect place from here so will move on to the vision that is Kurseong tommorrow.
More ludicrous road safety signs. 5 and 6 in the series.
Hurry burry will ruin the curry.
If you are keen on survival then don,t believe in early arrival.
Find more trails down to the river which again become unrideable but at least got a good view of the terrain to launch myself for two more days of route finding which at last finds a decent days riding on the soon to be famous Sukhia-Pokriabong-Rangbang river-Mirik route . Thrilled with the days work. Walking back on the stiff climb back up to Mirik the clouds lift to give me a view of another town and ridge about 40 .m away with a forested top and myriad tea estates, looks like the perfect place from here so will move on to the vision that is Kurseong tommorrow.
More ludicrous road safety signs. 5 and 6 in the series.
Hurry burry will ruin the curry.
If you are keen on survival then don,t believe in early arrival.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Urine
Decide to give it one more day here using the trekking map provided and head down the 800 metre descent to Relle a tin pot town on the river. Initially excellent stuff for M.T.B' ing, quite steep in parts but plenty of flatter sections and tight corners to make things interesting. Bottom section is pretty unrideable though which would mean a bit of a push so become little down beat. Pep up with biscuits and fizzy pop in Relle and steam back up the track at a frenetic pace only to caught up by a local man who has been on a 50 k.m round trip walk from Pemling to Kalimpong to attend to some business, a trip he says he makes once a month, humbled to see the smartly dressed man bounding up the steep track trying to get back before dark.
Decision made and decide to give Mirik another try and hope that the mist that made Mirik a nightmare has lifted. Arrive the following day after a 7 hour jeep ride. This is pretty much last chance stuff here if no suitable trails around then that is it for the North East. 5 weeks and to date still have only 4 good days riding.
Will finish on a reflection on Indian public toilets. It is common for most public toilets to be manned by a man of the lower castes whose job it is to clean the toilets and collect a small charge usually 1 rupee for a slash "urine" and 2 rupees for a crap "toilet". Yesterday entered a public toilet in Kalimpong and made my way past the attendant with the idea to pay him on my way out. Had a slash but had to wait a bit because of the queue, returned to the attendants desk were the man asked "toilet ?" ; "no" I replied "urine"; "urine" asked the man quizzically "only urine ?"; yes "urine" I responded. The man seemed unhappy with my urine claim and began a prolonged discussion with his mate and assumed toilet tough which resulted in his mate heading for the cubicles to check for signs of non paid toilet use, luckily the attendant managed to refrain him and settled for "urine 1 rupee please". Might just declare myself "toilet" in future .
Decision made and decide to give Mirik another try and hope that the mist that made Mirik a nightmare has lifted. Arrive the following day after a 7 hour jeep ride. This is pretty much last chance stuff here if no suitable trails around then that is it for the North East. 5 weeks and to date still have only 4 good days riding.
Will finish on a reflection on Indian public toilets. It is common for most public toilets to be manned by a man of the lower castes whose job it is to clean the toilets and collect a small charge usually 1 rupee for a slash "urine" and 2 rupees for a crap "toilet". Yesterday entered a public toilet in Kalimpong and made my way past the attendant with the idea to pay him on my way out. Had a slash but had to wait a bit because of the queue, returned to the attendants desk were the man asked "toilet ?" ; "no" I replied "urine"; "urine" asked the man quizzically "only urine ?"; yes "urine" I responded. The man seemed unhappy with my urine claim and began a prolonged discussion with his mate and assumed toilet tough which resulted in his mate heading for the cubicles to check for signs of non paid toilet use, luckily the attendant managed to refrain him and settled for "urine 1 rupee please". Might just declare myself "toilet" in future .
The Great Samthar Plateau
4 days without a beer and it is showing. 5.30 a.m starts full of life, endless energy and enthusiasm for all things, vow to hit the syrupy Kingfishers as soon as I return from the wilderness no use feeling this good. Embark upon the 40 km return trip to the "Great Samthar Plateau" locals guide me out in the early morning light and onto the narrow trail that traverses the mountains with views of the snow capped Himalaya occasionally filtering through the ancient dense forest. Brilliant trail but again no use for mountain biking so break off the trail at Charcoal (ridiculous names continue) and head on to the main forest jeep trail which I run and walk until I reach the Samthar. No visible signs of any plateau at all with the flattest bit of land up here a tiny cricket pitch, locals bemused my my requests for directions to the plateau. An English speaking man is found who clears the confusion with an unambiguous "there is nothing to see here tourists will not come". Polish of my lunch and but refuse to drink atrocious heavily salted and peppered tea which is undrinkable but a apparently a speciality in these parts. Jog most of the 20 km back through thick forest and even thicker mist very atmospheric with jungely noises and see only one group of people on the 3 hours it takes it me to return.
Friday, May 18, 2007
Kaffer; a South African's paradise
Head to Lava but have to hire my own vehicle as the remotest of towns has only one bus connection per day. Outstanding scenery all the way there as the van crawls along the lanes through the thick forest. Find hotel with T.V for evening football and have a run out through the forests superb stuff but become increasingly knackered on the rocky jeep roads and reduced to walking pace. Trekking map which I am using as a base for trail finding flummoxes the locals who appear to have never have heard of some of the places I am heading to, rain rescues me from further futile exploration and I hatch a lift back to Lava to have a rethink.
Bengali's in hotel reckon the trekking routes are better in the remotest of remote towns of Kaffer so head there the following day and bump into the only other tourist this side of the Rimlingting pass a South African; not on some pilgrimage to places with names fashioned out of apartheid Sud Adrika you might think; but rather a young student bimbling about, thank god for that.
Bengali's in hotel reckon the trekking routes are better in the remotest of remote towns of Kaffer so head there the following day and bump into the only other tourist this side of the Rimlingting pass a South African; not on some pilgrimage to places with names fashioned out of apartheid Sud Adrika you might think; but rather a young student bimbling about, thank god for that.
Kalimpong
No time to waste as I have only 4 weeks left to find some more decent trails up here in the North East of India ready for the hoped arrival of a big group of Singaporeans in November. Enroll big brother;" you only ring when you want something" in sending me out a new rotor. Pack up me running shoes and take jeep to Kalimpong the gateway to the remote villages of Lava and Kaffer and the fabled Grand Samthar Plateau where it is hoped there are some superb trails for mountain biking which I will have to run and walk first to test them out till the bike is fixed up.
Jeep journey enlivened bu ex Gurka who laments the reduction of the Gurkha battallions from seven to one at present. Reckons that the British always favoured Gurkha recruits from Darjeeling but for Darjeeling based ethnic Nepali's they had to prove they were Nepali citizens not Indian before they let them in. Reckons there was a lot of dubious paper work doing the rounds then. Explains that war is a terrible thing and prepare myself for some terrible tales of death and destruction. The man winks and says he got out before the Falklands and he only ever worked in a clerical post. Anyhow the man is well respected in Kalimpong and many salute and greet him as we walk through the streets. Seems very keen for me to me visit Bangkok on my travels and implores me to go as soon as possible "there for 100$ you can enjoy all day and night" reckons it is much better than Bhutan "nothing to see". Advice accepted.
Evening ales in rajesque Aroma bar faded charms and appear to be the only customer, polish of three ales as the Bihari owner brings out old photoes of his Grandad and Lady Mountbatten.
Jeep journey enlivened bu ex Gurka who laments the reduction of the Gurkha battallions from seven to one at present. Reckons that the British always favoured Gurkha recruits from Darjeeling but for Darjeeling based ethnic Nepali's they had to prove they were Nepali citizens not Indian before they let them in. Reckons there was a lot of dubious paper work doing the rounds then. Explains that war is a terrible thing and prepare myself for some terrible tales of death and destruction. The man winks and says he got out before the Falklands and he only ever worked in a clerical post. Anyhow the man is well respected in Kalimpong and many salute and greet him as we walk through the streets. Seems very keen for me to me visit Bangkok on my travels and implores me to go as soon as possible "there for 100$ you can enjoy all day and night" reckons it is much better than Bhutan "nothing to see". Advice accepted.
Evening ales in rajesque Aroma bar faded charms and appear to be the only customer, polish of three ales as the Bihari owner brings out old photoes of his Grandad and Lady Mountbatten.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
American, Indian.
Take stock over a few morning teas and decide that can,t really explore too much new territory with only the one working brake. Decide to make my way to the road-head at Rimbick some 30 k away and head back to Darjeeling to organise another disc. Set out at frenetic pace as informed whilst slurping down my third cup of tea that the last jeep out of Rimbick is at mid- day. Half push and half peddle through the undulating thick forests and reach Rimbick with 10 minutes to spare. Friendly American trekking group offer me lift in their privately chartered jeep causing me to reflect on the general good nature of the average travelling American an opinion strengthened when they refuse to accept any payment for the ride. Shame about the res............
Nothing to do with the days events but have decided that holidaying Indians are mad. All Indian's on holiday follow the same pattern of behaviour which means waking up at before sunrise, here about 4.30 a.m. Children and adults alike will put the T.V on full blast, swing and bang doors to make sure they work, shake or rattle anything at hand before embarking on synchronised throat clearing and burping. The next few hours are spent munching crisps and fizzy drinks before a big breakfast. After that they retire back to bed just occasionally venturing out of their hotels to throw some empty crisp packets about or go in search of more food.
Nothing to do with the days events but have decided that holidaying Indians are mad. All Indian's on holiday follow the same pattern of behaviour which means waking up at before sunrise, here about 4.30 a.m. Children and adults alike will put the T.V on full blast, swing and bang doors to make sure they work, shake or rattle anything at hand before embarking on synchronised throat clearing and burping. The next few hours are spent munching crisps and fizzy drinks before a big breakfast. After that they retire back to bed just occasionally venturing out of their hotels to throw some empty crisp packets about or go in search of more food.
The Tumling-Ghorkey Push
Massive day on the bike to come which should take see me climb over 1500 meters descend over 2500 metres, push a bit, cycle a bit and generally knacker meself out. Start of badly by heading the wrong way in the mist and tumbling down the mountains towards Nepali Eelam before locals spring out onto the track and tell me I am in the wrong country.
Mist a feature all day but when it clears navigation becomes easier but it also reveals some nasty climbs to come that last time I completed in the comforting ignorance of a blanket of cloud. Legs in poor shape after the second big climb of the day and reach the highest point at 3700 metres exhausted and not in need of a lunch of stale tibetan bread and rancid Yaks butter. Continue swiftly on; turning down offers of more culinary delights; and embark on the 20 km traverse to Phalut. Excellent mountain biking but have to get off on the few mini climbs and push more then expected. Reach the deplorable freezing rotting shed that serves as a Trekking hut in Phalut pop down a cup of tea in the company of a few weary trekkers wisely unwilling to rest their heads here and arrange to meet them in the village of Ghorkey 15 km and 1500 metres down in the valley below.
Descent is corking , winding singletrack with ready made berms, jumps and few rocky sections world's happiest man for 3 km before my back brake makes an appalling cracking noise and I now have a rear disc rotor in two pieces. Continue on with only the front brake for 100 metres before a puncture reduces me to tears. Patch up and wait for the trekkers and walk down with them for 2 hours along an amazing track that would have been the best descent done in India so far.
Night in Ghorkey superb village in the forest miles away from electric, roads, schools etc in fact so isolated that the forest department and the the local government have decided to shift the population of a 100 or to the nearest town in the name of development.
Mist a feature all day but when it clears navigation becomes easier but it also reveals some nasty climbs to come that last time I completed in the comforting ignorance of a blanket of cloud. Legs in poor shape after the second big climb of the day and reach the highest point at 3700 metres exhausted and not in need of a lunch of stale tibetan bread and rancid Yaks butter. Continue swiftly on; turning down offers of more culinary delights; and embark on the 20 km traverse to Phalut. Excellent mountain biking but have to get off on the few mini climbs and push more then expected. Reach the deplorable freezing rotting shed that serves as a Trekking hut in Phalut pop down a cup of tea in the company of a few weary trekkers wisely unwilling to rest their heads here and arrange to meet them in the village of Ghorkey 15 km and 1500 metres down in the valley below.
Descent is corking , winding singletrack with ready made berms, jumps and few rocky sections world's happiest man for 3 km before my back brake makes an appalling cracking noise and I now have a rear disc rotor in two pieces. Continue on with only the front brake for 100 metres before a puncture reduces me to tears. Patch up and wait for the trekkers and walk down with them for 2 hours along an amazing track that would have been the best descent done in India so far.
Night in Ghorkey superb village in the forest miles away from electric, roads, schools etc in fact so isolated that the forest department and the the local government have decided to shift the population of a 100 or to the nearest town in the name of development.
Saturday, May 12, 2007
De-railed
Up at 5 a.m to make up for the lost time and take jeep out of Darjeeling to the town of Ghoom. The road follows the toy train track which weaves and wanders all over the road making driving difficult. Compounding the difficulties are thousands of Bengali tourists coming in Jeeps the other way form the morning pilgrimage to Tiger Hill to watch the sunrise over Kanjunchunga mountain. Jeep takes an eternity to reach Ghoom an eternity in which I remember I have left my gloves in the hotel so have to return back. Another hour to travel back the 8 k.m to Ghoom pick up the gloves and then jeep it back again to Ghoom to find a total traffic jam this time caused by hordes of Bengali tourists waiting for the toy train to do a circle of Batasla loop. Arrive in Ghoom at 9 a.m in livid state and begin to conclude that the toy train track should be struck off the U.N.E.S.C.O list and dug up.
Back to doss house, change and peddle at furious pace up the 1000 meter climb to Tumling before running out of legs and pushing up the super steep rock paved track. Tumling fantastic and stay again in Shikara lodge were I position myself in the wooden kitchen next to the hearth for another evening of watching cats, being fed and chatting to the guides and teachers of the student groups.
Back to doss house, change and peddle at furious pace up the 1000 meter climb to Tumling before running out of legs and pushing up the super steep rock paved track. Tumling fantastic and stay again in Shikara lodge were I position myself in the wooden kitchen next to the hearth for another evening of watching cats, being fed and chatting to the guides and teachers of the student groups.
Purple Vision
Head back to Darjeeling to re do the Singallilla ridge ride and try to find a better descent down from the windswept 3700 metre Nepal, West Bengal, Sikkim border post of Phalut. Attempt new route to the starting town of Manibhanjang but thwarted by river crossings and locals refuse to accept that a cycle is a fit means of transport for what I propose to do. So head back to Darjeeling and road it the 25 km to the starting point. Storms stop me 5 km short and take shelter for two hours as the rains threaten to sweep everything away down to the plains. Pissed wet through, frozen and miserable on arrival in the starting town and decide to spend night there. Lodgings in pityfull state so decide to leave bike in the doss house and head back to Darjeeling to dry clothes and jeep it back to Darjeeling and have a night of luxury instead. Luxury accomadation dream shattered as most hotels full so spend night in hotel not dissimilar to the one where I left the bike. Manager points out T.V as sign of luxury though and relish an evening of watching England One Day International re runs from the 1980's in glorious purple vision with a big band down the middle of the screen.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Legship and Bum
At last I am on the bike in Sikkim attempting a three day ride on little used trekking routes that will take me from Pelling-Ketchapperri Lake-Yuksom-Tasheeding-Legship.
Things start well and find the trail down from Pelling through the forests and down to the river some 1000 metres below. Trail is steep in parts but blows out to a wider jeep track covered in shail and makes for fantastic riding. Sadly trail ends and I have to negotiate my way through someones garden and then everything becomes increasingly unrideable down to the river. Hike up the other side for a km or so then decide I would rather ride on the Tarmac than carry for three hours.
Arrive in Katchaperry book myself into Trekkers lodge and head in search of food, walk around the holy lake and Trek to the monastery inconveniently placed like all monasteries on top of the steepest hill. A handful of other tourists make for decent company and shuvvle a few ales down as an ex M.T.B er from America shows of his reasons for packing the sport in. Fractured skull, missing teeth, two broken wrists.
Day 2
Up early and head down the next super steep descent a trifle gingerly until abandon and and start to push on the moss covered man made rock trail which becomes increasingly treacherous as it heads deeper into the thick forest.
Cross over bridge and traverse on cracking path for a few k.m before the uphill battle begins again and return to the tarmac for 9 km climb up to Yuksom. Yuksom is a cracking little place full of character. Head up to another monastery this time on the bike and push up for an 1 hour before having the bike seized by monks who make merry with the bike as is the custom here. Super run back down and regain confidence on steep stepped section and fell like a real M.T.B er.
Spend time in evening talking to bird watcher who takes exception at my labelling of him and corrects me that he is the business of bird research like I am a M.T.B researcher not a cyclist. Eh. Does seem to know what he is talking about and appears to be studying why Sikkim has more varieties of birds than anywhere else in India.
Meet another researcher in the evening from Himachel Pradesh; in North West India; who is on a recce for mountain biking in Sikkim, very unusual this. Anyhow seems more keen on jeep trails and broken roads and reckons searching out singletrack is a too time consuming and no one is interested. Interestingly reckons no one in North India does real mountain biking before inviting me to lead one of his groups out in October. Will wait and see on that.
Day 3
Amazing trails for k.m after k.m in the most scenic and remotest section so far but the trail is impossible to ride more than a few metres here and there as is it super steep then rocky and undulating. Brilliant for walking but useless for M.T.B Abandon to road after steamy sweaty 3 hours of perseverence hoping for a decent rideable section.
Road it back to Legship; my favourite named town in Sikkim after Bum; after another mountain climb up to the the famed gold topped monastery at Tasheeding. Too tired to enjoy it so trundle back down dispirited about M.T.B in Sikkim and hatch a plan to return to W.Bengal and abandon Sikkim till the competition on the 12th. Reckon it could takes months to find a few days decent riding here.
Things start well and find the trail down from Pelling through the forests and down to the river some 1000 metres below. Trail is steep in parts but blows out to a wider jeep track covered in shail and makes for fantastic riding. Sadly trail ends and I have to negotiate my way through someones garden and then everything becomes increasingly unrideable down to the river. Hike up the other side for a km or so then decide I would rather ride on the Tarmac than carry for three hours.
Arrive in Katchaperry book myself into Trekkers lodge and head in search of food, walk around the holy lake and Trek to the monastery inconveniently placed like all monasteries on top of the steepest hill. A handful of other tourists make for decent company and shuvvle a few ales down as an ex M.T.B er from America shows of his reasons for packing the sport in. Fractured skull, missing teeth, two broken wrists.
Day 2
Up early and head down the next super steep descent a trifle gingerly until abandon and and start to push on the moss covered man made rock trail which becomes increasingly treacherous as it heads deeper into the thick forest.
Cross over bridge and traverse on cracking path for a few k.m before the uphill battle begins again and return to the tarmac for 9 km climb up to Yuksom. Yuksom is a cracking little place full of character. Head up to another monastery this time on the bike and push up for an 1 hour before having the bike seized by monks who make merry with the bike as is the custom here. Super run back down and regain confidence on steep stepped section and fell like a real M.T.B er.
Spend time in evening talking to bird watcher who takes exception at my labelling of him and corrects me that he is the business of bird research like I am a M.T.B researcher not a cyclist. Eh. Does seem to know what he is talking about and appears to be studying why Sikkim has more varieties of birds than anywhere else in India.
Meet another researcher in the evening from Himachel Pradesh; in North West India; who is on a recce for mountain biking in Sikkim, very unusual this. Anyhow seems more keen on jeep trails and broken roads and reckons searching out singletrack is a too time consuming and no one is interested. Interestingly reckons no one in North India does real mountain biking before inviting me to lead one of his groups out in October. Will wait and see on that.
Day 3
Amazing trails for k.m after k.m in the most scenic and remotest section so far but the trail is impossible to ride more than a few metres here and there as is it super steep then rocky and undulating. Brilliant for walking but useless for M.T.B Abandon to road after steamy sweaty 3 hours of perseverence hoping for a decent rideable section.
Road it back to Legship; my favourite named town in Sikkim after Bum; after another mountain climb up to the the famed gold topped monastery at Tasheeding. Too tired to enjoy it so trundle back down dispirited about M.T.B in Sikkim and hatch a plan to return to W.Bengal and abandon Sikkim till the competition on the 12th. Reckon it could takes months to find a few days decent riding here.
Saturday, May 5, 2007
The Problem With Pelling
Disastrous morning trying to find jeep stand which has been shifted due to the arrival of a V.I.P in Gantok so best to inconvenience everybody else rather than have a V.I.P stuck behind a jeep for a minute. Spend hours free wheeling down Gantok's super steep roads to a fictitious jeep stands that appear to have been magically moved seconds before I arrive. This is followed by me pushing the bike and carrying my heavy bag of tools, clothes and spare parts miles back up the tortuously steep roads back to other non existent jeep stands, eventually rescued by a man who had seen me traipsing up and down for hours and takes my bags on his motorbike as I follow on my bicycle to the jeep stand.
Arrive Pelling after 5 hour jeep ride initially pleasant looking place with astonishing views of the snow capped Eastern Himalaya. Meet up with Estonian cycle tour group making film of their travels from Khatmandu to Tehran, seem to be off track a bit here. Loads of ale and Chang; fermented millet drink slurped through a straw; make for decent night and sabotage the following days efforts to get on my bike.
Discover on sabotaged day that Pelling is as dull as the dead blue sheep that lie scattered over Sikkim's mountainous terrain so decide to get out the following day and embark on a three day cycling trek.
Problem with Pelling is that it is soulless and is one windy road full of high rise hotels all vying for a view of the admittedly fantastic Himalaya. There is no bazaar and no real shops and the only business transaction I conducted forced me into the hands of a shoe repairer in a super glamorous wooden hut with remarkable stunning Himalayan views in which he decided to repair my rotting Shimano S.P.D's at ludicrous rates. 70 Rupees. Furious.
Arrive Pelling after 5 hour jeep ride initially pleasant looking place with astonishing views of the snow capped Eastern Himalaya. Meet up with Estonian cycle tour group making film of their travels from Khatmandu to Tehran, seem to be off track a bit here. Loads of ale and Chang; fermented millet drink slurped through a straw; make for decent night and sabotage the following days efforts to get on my bike.
Discover on sabotaged day that Pelling is as dull as the dead blue sheep that lie scattered over Sikkim's mountainous terrain so decide to get out the following day and embark on a three day cycling trek.
Problem with Pelling is that it is soulless and is one windy road full of high rise hotels all vying for a view of the admittedly fantastic Himalaya. There is no bazaar and no real shops and the only business transaction I conducted forced me into the hands of a shoe repairer in a super glamorous wooden hut with remarkable stunning Himalayan views in which he decided to repair my rotting Shimano S.P.D's at ludicrous rates. 70 Rupees. Furious.
Two nights in Gantok
Few cheap ales in Gangtok's pubs sets me up for a full days Mountain Bike research. Given the name of a man who is Sikkim's best M.T.B er who works at local school and takes some time off to meet me. Spend an hour pouring over maps to locate the best trails that Sikkim has to offer and decide on reflection that their aren't any and that the teacher is happier on roads than on singletrack. Excellent bloke all the same and reckons I would be best heading to the West and trying my arm on some of the established trekking routes.
A mountain bike competition is also planned for the 12th May which appears odd as there are not many mountain bikers in Sikkim. It appears that the event has been organised by the tourist board in attempts to attract an international field. The competition is uphill all the way two thirds on tarmac and the rest on a jeep road in a forest. Still it could have something to offer and might be able to meet up with some more riders so will head West to Pelling tomorrow.
A mountain bike competition is also planned for the 12th May which appears odd as there are not many mountain bikers in Sikkim. It appears that the event has been organised by the tourist board in attempts to attract an international field. The competition is uphill all the way two thirds on tarmac and the rest on a jeep road in a forest. Still it could have something to offer and might be able to meet up with some more riders so will head West to Pelling tomorrow.
Driving with Whiskey
Delirium put to bed so pulled myself together and boarded the jeep to Gantok, the capital of the mountain state of Sikkim and the most recent member of the Indian Union (1975). Lovely drive alongside fast flowing rivers through increasingly mountainous terrain. The journey is made even more entertaining by the ludicrous signs painted on to rocks on the side of the road, signs presumably dreamed up by the All Indian Road Safety Sign Design Department or A.I.R.S.S.D.D. Here a some of the better ones.
Left is Right.
On My Curve Test Your Nerve
Driving With Whiskey Very Very Risky
and my favourite.
Don,t Gossip Let the Man Drive.
More to come
Left is Right.
On My Curve Test Your Nerve
Driving With Whiskey Very Very Risky
and my favourite.
Don,t Gossip Let the Man Drive.
More to come
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